Working a sweater with big stripes is a great look. If you have tons of yarn available it’s not a problem to get equal sized stripes on the body and the sleeves. I made sure I bought enough. Knitting this prototype for the Any Gauge Crewneck Raglan sweater for my SNL was really fun.
Then I decided to knit a mini-me sweater for my grandson with all the odd balls I had left over. Now I have a limited amount of yarn to work the body and sleeve stripes.
How do you divide your yarn so you’re sure to have enough for the sleeve stripes while you’re working the body? I didn’t want to knit the body sweating about the sleeve stripes. I wanted a nice relaxing knit.
If you have a scale to weigh your yarn and you have decided on the finished size of the sweater, you can follow along. Here is how I did it for my sweater sized for a 1 year old:
Formula: weight of yarn available = body circumference + sleeve circumference + second sleeve circumference.
Now the calculator comes out: Divide the grams of yarn by the total circumference of body and sleeves. This will give you the number of grams of yarn needed to knit once around the body and two sleeves.
Here are the numbers I used with my left-over balls of yarn:
35g of rust colour = 22″ body + 9″ sleeve + 9″ sleeve (1 year size)
35g = 40″ circumference
Divide as follows: 35 divided by 40 = number of grams to knit one round of the body and two sleeves
0.875g of yarn needed for every round of stripes knit
Separate Yarn to use for body and sleeve stripes : OK, now that I have this weird number from the formula I can divide my yarn into enough for the body stripe and 2 equal sized balls for each sleeve stripe:
22″ body x 0.875g = 19.25g of yarn for a body stripe
9″ sleeve x 0.875g = 7.87g of yarn for each sleeve stripe
Weigh out your yarn. Give yourself a safety margin. I wound a ball weighing 18g for the Body stripe. Now I’m sure to have more than enough left for the sleeve stripes.
Once I knew I would have enough for the sleeves I could make a decision on the actual size of the rust stripe, knowing I could mimic it in the sleeves. I didn’t need all 18g for the body stripe I wanted so I ended up with a little left over. Then I knit the sleeve stripes, counting rows so they were the same as the body stripe. This worked out perfectly. At least I think it did.
I am so pleased with the results.
I hope this is helpful, Cheers, Deb
Any Gauge and Gauge-Free knitting patterns by Deb