Category: Uncategorized

What if … the bust and sleeve could both fit?

What if … the raglan markers on your Top Down sweater were only a guideline for the size of your sleeve and not the exact size of the sleeve?

“Why don’t you knit sweaters for yourself?” I have asked this question of a lot of knitters. The answer, quite often, is that the sleeves never fit. A lot of knitting pattern sizes are based primarily on the measurement around your bust. If your bust measurement and your arm measurement don’t agree with the size chart the designer is using, then you are not getting a good fit.

This is one of the problems I wanted to solve in the adult sizes of my series of Any Gauge Raglan patterns. I have written these patterns for one person at a time – you. You don’t have to compare yourself to a size chart.

In these patterns, you take your bust measurement and arm measurement with a tape measure, and, after converting to the number of stitches, make the raglan yoke to these measurements (Bust + Arm + Arm). Yes, when you finish the yoke,it would fit you like a second skin.

Then you put the exact number of stitches for your arm on spare yarn for your sleeve.

Here is the bottom of my Family Crew Neck yoke with one set of sleeve stitches on spare (red) yarn.

My sleeve stitches on the spare yarn are inside the raglan markers.

In this case my sleeve stitches are 6 sts narrower (1.25″ narrower) than where the raglan markers would indicate. Whether the sleeve stitches end up inside or outside the raglan markers depends on where the markers are set up in the neckline and the size of your arm, of course.

But it fits like a second skin? How is that going to work?

Wait, there’s more. Cast on the number of stitches you need for the amount of ease you want on the body. It could be anywhere between 4″- 7″ or even more, if you wish. Cast on 1/2 the ease at one underarm and the other 1/2 at the other underarm.

Now this sweater body has been knit to your specific measurements at the bust and arm. Ease has been added. This sweater body will fit you and only you.

Is this a really radical idea? Questions?

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram

Twisted Stitches

I have added a twisted stitch pattern to my Family Crew Neck.

Twist stitch patterns are perfect for adding into a sweater. They don’t affect your stitch count so you can just plug them anywhere you want. I put this pattern down the middle of the front of this top down pullover. I will also add this pattern to each side of the body. I might even add them into my cuffs. Why not? I just can’t get enough of them.

Twisted stitches are a two stitch cable without the cable needle. Don’t you love that!

This diamond pattern is included in the Family Crew Neck.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram

Settling In

There are parts of sweater knitting that I enjoy over others. Settling in to knit a raglan yoke is one of the most enjoyable parts of the sweater for me. I love keeping track of the increases, seeing it get bigger and bigger, wider and wider, knowing it’s going to be so great.

Both of my Family Crew Neck sweaters are progressing well. The child size 4 is way ahead.

The colouring of the yarn is a great incentive to keep going. This is Maravilla by Katia, a wool & acrylic blend.

My navy version (Shelridge Yarns, W4 worsted, navy) is coming along. The short rows are done here. I was knitting on a train trip to Ottawa. Perfect knitting conditions: travel mug of tea, audio book and ear buds, hours of quiet knitting time.

Now I’m ready to really go for it. I will be introducing a pattern into the front 20 stitches between the ends of the short rows. Fun, fun, fun. Isn’t knitting just the greatest!

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free knitting patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram

Lower front of neck-Family Crew Neck

We like a sweater to have a lower front of neck, at least I do. This Family Crew Neck pullover is set up with short rows to give you that.

The Beginning of Round is at the Left Front Shoulder. To work the first short row, work a pair of raglan increases, one before and one after the Beginning of Round Marker. Then knit across shoulder, back of neck and second shoulder, working a pair of raglan increases at each of the markers, ending with a pair of increases worked at the Right Front where you work the short row as written.

Turn and purl across shoulder, back of neck and second shoulder, past the Beginning of Round Marker, work the short row and turn. Here is the first set of short rows finished. Can you see a gap where I turned at the end of each short row?

Every time you work a short row you will close the gap from the previous row, work past it, and turn which makes a new gap. Each short row gets longer and longer, creeping further down the front …

… until the short rows are complete.

Here is the 4 year old size with the short rows and yoke almost finished (because this little one is sooo much faster to knit). The Front neckband is nice and low and the back of neck and shoulders have a lot more rows on them. (Yarn is Maravilla by katia – loving the colour shifting.)

I did a video of my favourite Raglan Increase that I call the Open M1. I have no idea if this has an official name. If you know what it might be please comment so I know too.

Now to get back to my adult Family Crew Neck. It’s only a neckband so far and I can’t wait to wear it.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram.

Family Crew Neck, let’s Cast On

This will be my first sweater of 2024 and I am so excited to get started. If you want to knit along with me, the Family Crew Neck is on ravely. I am going to make videos for most of the sections of the sweater so you can see how this pattern works. It’s an Any Gauge pattern so I don’t know what yarn or what size you are knitting, that was the challenge of writing this pattern.

I am going to knit a 4 year old size for my grandson and an adult size for myself. I had knit one for my son-in-law, my grandson (both in the photo), one for my daughter-in-law (also in photo), and one for my daughter. I didn’t knit one for myself!!! It’s obviously time.

This is a longish post. Getting started always takes a bit of time. Hang on, there are videos and photos of the Cast On for both sizes.

Here we go. Because this pattern is for Any Gauge of yarn, you do have to do some math. Sorry, but there is no avoiding it. You need your gauge (# of sts in 1″) and a couple more numbers. Nothing your calculator can’t handle.

Here is my cast on. Gauge is DK weight yarn (5.5 sts = 1″), 4 year old size with 5″ Back of Neck (BofN).

Yes, there are a lot of Front sts, that’s totally correct. The extra Front sts will form a dropped front to the crewneck.

Here is my cast on for an adult size in worsted weight yarn (gauge is 5 sts = 1″) with an 8″ Back of Neck.

And now, how can you cast on when you will be beginning with the neck band and it needs to go over your head easily? I learned this from Cat Bourdhi and now use it all the time.

OR watch Crocodile Cast On by Cat Bordhi

OK, I’m on my way. Two versions of the Family Crew Neck are on the needles. Join me and knit along or just cheer me on.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram

A New Year, any plans?

I have a terrible case of startitis. This is the result of a busy week of holiday celebrations and 3 days with a 3 year old. I don’t think there has been that much energy in our place for some time!

I would love to knit a new Family Crew Neck sweater for the little guy. He’s so much bigger now, my grandson that is, LOL.

I want to do videos, so if you want to, you can knit along. The pattern is for all sizes. I might just knit one for myself at the same time. Too much? I know, really bad startitis.

I haven’t forgotten about the other vest ideas. I really have one I want to try, so that’s still in the queue.

How are your plans? Are you also tripping over all the things you want to knit?

Cheers, Deb

ANY gauge and Gauge-free patterns by Deb https://www.ravelry.com/stores/debgemmellmods

Deb.gemmell on instagram

Have a Merry Time

It’s that time of year. I hope you are enjoying some holiday cheer. Best wishes to you and yours.

I have knitting plans, of course, for the holiday. Plans to finish a few things.

This hat, a Two Triangle Hat made out of chunky weight left-overs.

Today I am going to block this sweater. There, it’s in writing, now I have to do it. Wait, I’ll just go run water into the sink … there that’s done, now it’s going to happen. It’s one of those double stranded mohair + wool sweaters and I’m a little nervous about washing and blocking. Have you done this? Did it work out ok?

Another sweater that I started waaay back has sleeves to finish. I am knitting them 2 at a time, my new favourite way. Of course you wouldn’t know that since it’s been sitting for a while but I am looking forward to doing the sleeves.

Then there is the Christmas sock gift that I have to finish pretty smartly. These I’m knitting in the helical way with 3 colours. I am enjoying watching the colours come together.

Phew, after all of that, I might, just might, start a pullover for my grandson. I have the yarn on my desk and it is calling to me.

In January I am going to knit another vest. I have an idea, which may or may not work, but that’s the fun of it.

See you on the other side. Happy New Year, 2024, yikes!

Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

deb.gemmell on instagram

Build A Vest is Done

My goal this year was to knit fingering weight garments. I’m finding it a slow go. So this is a short post to celebrate. I’m so happy to have it finished.

This is my first one. A vest version of the Build A Bigger V. There are fewer changes for the vest than I had thought at first. The biggest change is no sleeves, of course, so the final bit was knitting out to the sides to get the correct fit around the body.

It fits well, it’s light weight and did I mention, it’s Done.

I’m so excited. I just had to show you (over and over again, apparently).

Now it’s time to finish up some small things. They are soooo satisfying after finishing a bigger project.

Are you busy with small knitting or longer projects? I hope it’s going well.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

deb.gemmell on instagram

Geeky Short Row placement

As I have been knitting away on my vest version of the Build A Bigger V cardigan I have been thinking about the armhole. They are rather a big deal when knitting a sleeveless garment, right?

My other concern was getting some extra bust width on the front. Short rows to the rescue. The mods pages for the cardigan has instructions for short rows to make an A-line cardigan. I used the same idea except for where I began my short rows.

I want the extra width to begin high up so I get an outward slant to the line from the shoulder. High on the front (the top pine) and lower on the back (lower pin).

I worked the short rows with 2 ridges in between. I think it worked.

I can almost see it finished now.

Almost!!!

Hope your knitting is going well too, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram

Build a Vest: joining Front and Back video

Progress is being made on my vest version of the Build A Bigger V cardigan, and yes I am knitting like a crazy person. The Front is knit as a pullover. Nice and easy since it’s just the Back again without the beginning triangle at the neck. Done.

Now I have to attach them together so I can knit out to the edge of my shoulder.

Both the Front and Back have a 2 stitch I-cord worked along each edge. I’m going to use those I-Cord stitches for the pick up. Hang on, it’s a tricky ride.

Ta, da. Phew, done. Not hard to do. It’s just lots and lots of stitches.

Bye for now, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

deb.gemmell on instagram