Deb Gemmell: Top Down, Gauge Free and more

Knit to Fit: Top Down Easy Bust Shaping

Would you like the front of your sweater to be wider than the back? There are two obvious reasons why you might need that. Knit to Fit: Do I Need Bust Darts?

If you are working a casual Raglan sweater from the Top Down here is an easy way to get some extra width across the Front just where you need it: not over the entire front of the sweater and expecially not around the top of the shoulders and neckline, just at the bust.

As you work down your yoke, you are working increases at the raglan lines.

As you approach the bottom of the yoke, what would happen if you doubled up the increases on the Front only? Wouldn’t there be more width on the Front?

In the bottom couple of inches of the yoke, on the Front only, you could work an additional M1 increase beside the raglan increases you are already working, separated by a stitch or two. This could easily add an extra 2″- 3″ to the Front.Would the extra increases show? Not really. You can put them in just before the underarm. Can you see them?

They’re right there.

At my gauge of 5 sts = 1″, 5 extra increases on each side of my front (yes I did work 5 extra increases but I can’t find the 5th one) for a total of 10 extra stitches, which gives me 2″ of extra width across the front, above my bust. Great for my casual cardigan.

Now for the nitty gritty details. Here is an example of how it works for a cardigan:

Double Increases on Fronts for Bust Shaping

Increase Row: (RS) Work across the Front to 2 stitches before Marker#1, M1L (extra increase for bust), K1, work your regular raglan increase, K1, slip Marker#1, K1, work raglan increase, work across Sleeve to 1 stitch before Marker#2, work raglan increase, K1, slip Marker, K1, work raglan increase, knit across Back to 1 stitch before Marker#3, work raglan increase, K1, slip Marker#3, K1, work raglan increase, work across Sleeve to 1 stitch before Marker#4, work raglan increase, K1, slip Marker#4, on the Front work K1, work raglan increase, K1, M1R (extra increase for bust), knit across remaining stitches of Front to end of row. – increase of 10 sts, 8 raglan increases + 2 extra bust increases on Fronts only.

You can use this in addition to other bust shaping techniques for more width or shaping. You can add this shaping to any Top Down Raglan sweater pattern where the front and back are the same width.

You can decrease these extra bust stitches away as you work towards your waist or leave them there. It’s a casual cardigan so I just left them there. It helps to prevent button gap.

There it is. One easy way to make some extra width for your bust.

Thanks for reading,

Deb

M1L: Work before the Raglan line: With Left needle, lift the running thread between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, from front to back, and knit into the back of the resulting loop.

M1R: Work after the Raglan line: With Left needle, lift running thread between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, from back to front, and knit into the front of the resulting loop (this is tight to work).

ANY GAUGE and GAUGE-FREE patterns by Deb

Cabin Fever No-Sew patterns

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Too Many WIPs

I have definitely dug myself into a big hole with all of my WIPs. It’s a somewhat comfortable hole since I am sitting on a pile of knitting but I’m overwhelmed and discouraged.

It’s was a bad sign when I had to take the needle tips off of this project to knit something else. This is a Family Crew Neck for my grandson. Part of my procrastinating is that I’m not at all sure what to do with the sleeves. I have a second ball of this yarn for the sleeves but I’m wondering how to do the stripes on the sleeves so that they sort of match the body. Some more thinking is needed.

I grabbed the needles from that project to do an Any Gauge Raglan Pullover because I’m running a class right now and thought I should knit along with my students. I encouraged them to knit with worsted weight yarn or chunky yarn so they could get their pullovers done over the 6 weeks. I, of course, am knitting mine in fingering weight yarn. I feel like I am knitting furiously and getting nowhere. Sigh, I know. What was I thinking?!

Then there is the blog which you have been reading. I have wanted a Family Crew Neck for some time. I will be getting back to that soon. I have so much more to tell you about getting a good fit with your raglan.

You would think that three sweaters is enough to keep me busy. Then I cast on a hat. I knit the whole hat on the wrong size needle, ran out of yarn, pulled it out and am now on the redo with the correct needle. Not much more to say about that!

Am I finished? Apparently not.

For the month of February I am teaching a sock class. My first time sock students are knitting boot socks in worsted weight yarn. They will have a pair of socks done by the end of the month. I will, maybe, have one sock done past the heel with my sock yarn.

HOW DID THIS HAPPEN??? I hope you are in better control of your knitting. Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free knitting patterns by Deb

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What if … the bust and sleeve could both fit?

What if … the raglan markers on your Top Down sweater were only a guideline for the size of your sleeve and not the exact size of the sleeve?

“Why don’t you knit sweaters for yourself?” I have asked this question of a lot of knitters. The answer, quite often, is that the sleeves never fit. A lot of knitting pattern sizes are based primarily on the measurement around your bust. If your bust measurement and your arm measurement don’t agree with the size chart the designer is using, then you are not getting a good fit.

This is one of the problems I wanted to solve in the adult sizes of my series of Any Gauge Raglan patterns. I have written these patterns for one person at a time – you. You don’t have to compare yourself to a size chart.

In these patterns, you take your bust measurement and arm measurement with a tape measure, and, after converting to the number of stitches, make the raglan yoke to these measurements (Bust + Arm + Arm). Yes, when you finish the yoke,it would fit you like a second skin.

Then you put the exact number of stitches for your arm on spare yarn for your sleeve.

Here is the bottom of my Family Crew Neck yoke with one set of sleeve stitches on spare (red) yarn.

My sleeve stitches on the spare yarn are inside the raglan markers.

In this case my sleeve stitches are 6 sts narrower (1.25″ narrower) than where the raglan markers would indicate. Whether the sleeve stitches end up inside or outside the raglan markers depends on where the markers are set up in the neckline and the size of your arm, of course.

But it fits like a second skin? How is that going to work?

Wait, there’s more. Cast on the number of stitches you need for the amount of ease you want on the body. It could be anywhere between 4″- 7″ or even more, if you wish. Cast on 1/2 the ease at one underarm and the other 1/2 at the other underarm.

Now this sweater body has been knit to your specific measurements at the bust and arm. Ease has been added. This sweater body will fit you and only you.

Is this a really radical idea? Questions?

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

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Twisted Stitches

I have added a twisted stitch pattern to my Family Crew Neck.

Twist stitch patterns are perfect for adding into a sweater. They don’t affect your stitch count so you can just plug them anywhere you want. I put this pattern down the middle of the front of this top down pullover. I will also add this pattern to each side of the body. I might even add them into my cuffs. Why not? I just can’t get enough of them.

Twisted stitches are a two stitch cable without the cable needle. Don’t you love that!

This diamond pattern is included in the Family Crew Neck.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

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Settling In

There are parts of sweater knitting that I enjoy over others. Settling in to knit a raglan yoke is one of the most enjoyable parts of the sweater for me. I love keeping track of the increases, seeing it get bigger and bigger, wider and wider, knowing it’s going to be so great.

Both of my Family Crew Neck sweaters are progressing well. The child size 4 is way ahead.

The colouring of the yarn is a great incentive to keep going. This is Maravilla by Katia, a wool & acrylic blend.

My navy version (Shelridge Yarns, W4 worsted, navy) is coming along. The short rows are done here. I was knitting on a train trip to Ottawa. Perfect knitting conditions: travel mug of tea, audio book and ear buds, hours of quiet knitting time.

Now I’m ready to really go for it. I will be introducing a pattern into the front 20 stitches between the ends of the short rows. Fun, fun, fun. Isn’t knitting just the greatest!

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free knitting patterns by Deb

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Lower front of neck-Family Crew Neck

We like a sweater to have a lower front of neck, at least I do. This Family Crew Neck pullover is set up with short rows to give you that.

The Beginning of Round is at the Left Front Shoulder. To work the first short row, work a pair of raglan increases, one before and one after the Beginning of Round Marker. Then knit across shoulder, back of neck and second shoulder, working a pair of raglan increases at each of the markers, ending with a pair of increases worked at the Right Front where you work the short row as written.

Turn and purl across shoulder, back of neck and second shoulder, past the Beginning of Round Marker, work the short row and turn. Here is the first set of short rows finished. Can you see a gap where I turned at the end of each short row?

Every time you work a short row you will close the gap from the previous row, work past it, and turn which makes a new gap. Each short row gets longer and longer, creeping further down the front …

… until the short rows are complete.

Here is the 4 year old size with the short rows and yoke almost finished (because this little one is sooo much faster to knit). The Front neckband is nice and low and the back of neck and shoulders have a lot more rows on them. (Yarn is Maravilla by katia – loving the colour shifting.)

I did a video of my favourite Raglan Increase that I call the Open M1. I have no idea if this has an official name. If you know what it might be please comment so I know too.

Now to get back to my adult Family Crew Neck. It’s only a neckband so far and I can’t wait to wear it.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

Deb.gemmell on instagram.

Family Crew Neck, let’s Cast On

This will be my first sweater of 2024 and I am so excited to get started. If you want to knit along with me, the Family Crew Neck is on ravely. I am going to make videos for most of the sections of the sweater so you can see how this pattern works. It’s an Any Gauge pattern so I don’t know what yarn or what size you are knitting, that was the challenge of writing this pattern.

I am going to knit a 4 year old size for my grandson and an adult size for myself. I had knit one for my son-in-law, my grandson (both in the photo), one for my daughter-in-law (also in photo), and one for my daughter. I didn’t knit one for myself!!! It’s obviously time.

This is a longish post. Getting started always takes a bit of time. Hang on, there are videos and photos of the Cast On for both sizes.

Here we go. Because this pattern is for Any Gauge of yarn, you do have to do some math. Sorry, but there is no avoiding it. You need your gauge (# of sts in 1″) and a couple more numbers. Nothing your calculator can’t handle.

Here is my cast on. Gauge is DK weight yarn (5.5 sts = 1″), 4 year old size with 5″ Back of Neck (BofN).

Yes, there are a lot of Front sts, that’s totally correct. The extra Front sts will form a dropped front to the crewneck.

Here is my cast on for an adult size in worsted weight yarn (gauge is 5 sts = 1″) with an 8″ Back of Neck.

And now, how can you cast on when you will be beginning with the neck band and it needs to go over your head easily? I learned this from Cat Bourdhi and now use it all the time.

OR watch Crocodile Cast On by Cat Bordhi

OK, I’m on my way. Two versions of the Family Crew Neck are on the needles. Join me and knit along or just cheer me on.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

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A New Year, any plans?

I have a terrible case of startitis. This is the result of a busy week of holiday celebrations and 3 days with a 3 year old. I don’t think there has been that much energy in our place for some time!

I would love to knit a new Fam ily Crew Neck sweater for the little guy. He’s so much bigger now, my grandson that is, LOL.

I want to do videos, so if you want to, you can knit along. The pattern is for all sizes. I might just knit one for myself at the same time. Too much? I know, really bad startitis.

I haven’t forgotten about the other vest ideas. I really have one I want to try, so that’s still in the queue.

How are your plans? Are you also tripping over all the things you want to knit?

Cheers, Deb

ANY gauge and Gauge-free patterns by Deb https://www.ravelry.com/stores/debgemmellmods

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Have a Merry Time

It’s that time of year. I hope you are enjoying some holiday cheer. Best wishes to you and yours.

I have knitting plans, of course, for the holiday. Plans to finish a few things.

This hat, a Two Triangle Hat made out of chunky weight left-overs.

Today I am going to block this sweater. There, it’s in writing, now I have to do it. Wait, I’ll just go run water into the sink … there that’s done, now it’s going to happen. It’s one of those double stranded mohair + wool sweaters and I’m a little nervous about washing and blocking. Have you done this? Did it work out ok?

Another sweater that I started waaay back has sleeves to finish. I am knitting them 2 at a time, my new favourite way. Of course you wouldn’t know that since it’s been sitting for a while but I am looking forward to doing the sleeves.

Then there is the Christmas sock gift that I have to finish pretty smartly. These I’m knitting in the helical way with 3 colours. I am enjoying watching the colours come together.

Phew, after all of that, I might, just might, start a pullover for my grandson. I have the yarn on my desk and it is calling to me.

In January I am going to knit another vest. I have an idea, which may or may not work, but that’s the fun of it.

See you on the other side. Happy New Year, 2024, yikes!

Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

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Build A Vest is Done

My goal this year was to knit fingering weight garments. I’m finding it a slow go. So this is a short post to celebrate. I’m so happy to have it finished.

This is my first one. A vest version of the Build A Bigger V. There are fewer changes for the vest than I had thought at first. The biggest change is no sleeves, of course, so the final bit was knitting out to the sides to get the correct fit around the body.

It fits well, it’s light weight and did I mention, it’s Done.

I’m so excited. I just had to show you (over and over again, apparently).

Now it’s time to finish up some small things. They are soooo satisfying after finishing a bigger project.

Are you busy with small knitting or longer projects? I hope it’s going well.

Cheers, Deb

Any Gauge and Gauge-Free patterns by Deb

deb.gemmell on instagram

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