Is it too early to think about knitting garments? Too late, I’ve already started but I don’t want to repeat this …
The cardigan is finished. I’m so excited as a stand in front of the wall of buttons at the Fabricland store trying to choose the perfect buttons. These ones, no maybe these ones. I’ve decided on the blue ones (ha, almost always). I’m rushing home to sew them on. Oh, it looks gorgeous. I’m patting myself on the back as I put it on and stand in front of the mirror.
I tug it a little, tug a little more and get that horrible feeling as my heart drops down to my toes.
I have that horrible buttonband gaping. Can I wear it without buttoning it up? Maybe, I guess I could but I really like 3 or 4 buttons done up.
That was several years ago before I realized that I had to have some extra width right here.Now as a confirmed cardigan buttoner I add extra Front stitches for Bust Shaping to every cardigan. Then I have extra width just where you need it.But now what? What do you do with those extra stitches below the bust?
This is my current cardigan. I decided to knit this Top Down to my regular Finished size, including the ease, and then add even more additional width above my bust. I don’t want that unsightly buttonband gap that seems to show up in so many magazine photos. Negative ease on a cardigan across the bust is a mistake.
Now I’m cruising down the body with the extra width across the bust. Decision time, do I want these extra stitches to remain on the front for the entire body? Sometimes the answer is yes and sometimes no.
This time it’s no. I’m going to decrease those extra bust stitches away so that my two Fronts and the Back are in their original proportion: 2 Front sts added together = Back sts.
I worked straight until I had knit just past the largest part of my bust. For me that’s 4″ measured down from the underarm cast on.
This time I decided to decrease the extra bust stitches or most of them anyway, worked along with some waist shaping. So here goes.
On a Right Side row I’m going to decrease on the front side of the imaginary side seam on both Fronts (that will decrease an extra bust stitch on each Front). Then work a couple of rows and decrease on both the Front and Back sides of the side seams (waist shaping). Knit a couple of rows and repeat.
I worked this repeat quite quickly with only a couple rows in between the sets of decreases. I’m very short and I needed to start the A-line shaping for my hips pretty sharpish to get the width I needed there. If you are tall, first of all I’m envious, and second you can space these sets of decreases further apart so that you work them down to your waist. It will look terrific.
Cruising to the bottom edge now. Yay. Sleeves here I come.
Thanks for reading,
Any Gauge and GAUGE-FREE patterns by Deb
Cabin Fever pattterns and Books
Deb on instagram
3 thoughts on “Under the Bust Shaping”
More awesome advice, thank you so much, your tips are always helpful for those of us with bigger “girls”!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I hope this helps you make a sweater that fits well. It has certainly helped me.
This looks like a good tactic in dealing with the dreaded gap.
LikeLiked by 1 person